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A Square Meal: A Culinary History of the Great Depression, by Jane Ziegelman, Andrew Coe
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From the author of the acclaimed 97 Orchard and her husband, a culinary historian, an in-depth exploration of the greatest food crisis the nation has ever faced—the Great Depression—and how it transformed America’s culinary culture.
The decade-long Great Depression, a period of shifts in the country’s political and social landscape, forever changed the way America eats. Before 1929, America’s relationship with food was defined by abundance. But the collapse of the economy, in both urban and rural America, left a quarter of all Americans out of work and undernourished—shattering long-held assumptions about the limitlessness of the national larder.
In 1933, as women struggled to feed their families, President Roosevelt reversed long-standing biases toward government-sponsored “food charity.” For the first time in American history, the federal government assumed, for a while, responsibility for feeding its citizens. The effects were widespread. Championed by Eleanor Roosevelt, “home economists” who had long fought to bring science into the kitchen rose to national stature.
Tapping into America’s long-standing ambivalence toward culinary enjoyment, they imposed their vision of a sturdy, utilitarian cuisine on the American dinner table. Through the Bureau of Home Economics, these women led a sweeping campaign to instill dietary recommendations, the forerunners of today’s Dietary Guidelines for Americans.
At the same time, rising food conglomerates introduced packaged and processed foods that gave rise to a new American cuisine based on speed and convenience. This movement toward a homogenized national cuisine sparked a revival of American regional cooking. In the ensuing decades, the tension between local traditions and culinary science has defined our national cuisine—a battle that continues today.
A Square Meal examines the impact of economic contraction and environmental disaster on how Americans ate then—and the lessons and insights those experiences may hold for us today.
A Square Meal features 25 black-and-white photographs.
- Sales Rank: #7763 in Books
- Published on: 2016-08-16
- Released on: 2016-08-16
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.00" h x 1.09" w x 6.00" l, .0 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 336 pages
Review
“This revealing and perceptive book recalls the Depression through the food history of that dismal era. Intriguing recipes of that period’s most popular dishes help tell the story.” (Mimi Sheraton, food critic, journalist, and author of 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die)
“An engaging social history… The vivid recreation of American eating at a historical crossroads is engrossing.” (Publishers Weekly)
“This engaging social history, served up with period recipes, shows just how much the Great Depression fundamentally altered the way Americans shop, cook and eat.” (Pamela Paul, New York Times Book Review)
“[An] engaging and often moving cultural history... [An] eloquent work of historical summation.” (New York Times Book Review)
“The Great Depression has long been elusive in the history of American food and cooking: we’ve seen snapshots but never a full portrait. Now, with the deep, thoughtful research and lively writing for which they they’re both known, Andrew Coe and Jane Ziegelman at last open up this era.” (Laura Shapiro, author of Something from the Oven: Reinventing Dinner in 1950s America)
“The authors give a fresh slant to the familiar but complicated history of one of America’s most difficult eras… A highly readable, illuminating look at the many ramifications of feeding the hungry in hard times.” (Kirkus Reviews)
“one of those rare books which deliver more than they promise.” (Washington Times)
From the Back Cover
The idea of America as a place of abundance is enshrined in our culture, from Jefferson's agrarian democracy to the immensity of our supermarkets. The Great Depression, which left a uarter of all Americans out of work and undernourished, tested our belief in this land's unlimited bounty, and in the process changed the way America eats.
In 1933, after four years of deprivation and national debate, President Roosevelt reversed long-standing biases toward government-sponsored "food charity" and assumed responsibility for feeding the hungry. CHampioned by Elanor Roosevelt, "home economists," who had long fought to bring science into the kitchen, rose to national stature. THrough the Bureau of Home Economics, these women led a sweeping campaign to impose their vision of a sturdy, utilitarian cuisine, and instill nutritional recommendations, the forerunners of today's Dietary Guidelines for Americans. At the same time, expanding conglomerates introduced packages and processed foods, which led to a new American cuisine based on speed and convenience. This movement toward a homogenized national diet sparked a revival of American regional cooking that continues to this day.
A Square Meal examines how economic contraction and environmental disaster shaped the way American ate during the Great Depression--and shares the lessons and insights we may learn from those experiences today.
About the Author
Jane Ziegelman is the director of the Tenement Museum's culinary center and the founder and director of Kids Cook!, a multiethnic cooking program for children. Her writing on food has appeared in numerous publications, and she is the coauthor of Foie Gras: A Passion. She lives in Brooklyn, New York.
Most helpful customer reviews
43 of 44 people found the following review helpful.
Depression Dining
By takingadayoff
You might imagine a culinary history of the Great Depression would be a catalog of cheap and skimpy meals, but having read previous works by Jane Ziegelman and Andrew Coe, I knew I'd be in for a social history with all the trimmings.
I was not disappointed. A Square Meal chronicles American diets in the early 20th century, tells the history of hoboes in America (and the important differences between hoboes and tramps and bums), touches on the popularization of canned and frozen foods, and gets into the surprising politics of feeding (and not feeding) the unemployed during the Depression.
Sprinkled throughout are recipes and photographs and intriguing stories, and what runs just below the surface is that we are not so very far removed from the Thirties. The attitudes toward people using food stamps (which were introduced in that decade) were not charitable -- there was a suspicion in the White House among FDR's cabinet (and perhaps FDR himself) that people accepting handouts would suffer low morale from the experience. Evidently they thought that was a fate worse than actually starving to death, something that happened with grim regularity. But the false economy of letting people starve came back to roost when the Army had to disqualify half of the draftees it examined due to poor health, much of which was directly attributable to poor nutrition.
Fascinating social history, highly recommended!
(Thanks to HarperCollins and Edelweiss for a digital review copy.)
10 of 11 people found the following review helpful.
From breadlines to frozen food
By Jon Hunt
When one pairs the Great Depression and what Americans ate during those years, a reader could infer that this book might be a dull compilation of facts and figures from that time. The more than pleasant surprise is that authors Jane Ziegelman and Andrew Coe have given us a book of sheer delight. Covering those years between the two World Wars, we discover not only what Americans ate but how they did and how many of them managed with the bleakest of monetary assets.
"A Square Meal" gets into the political side of feeding a nation...from the Hoover administration's great reluctance to offer public food relief to the turnabout when Franklin Roosevelt became president. In fact, the book's most charming moments come when the authors describe the Roosevelt's housekeeper, Henrietta Nesbitt, who kept the president (and White House Guests) in great yearning for tastier meals, to put it mildly.
The menus offered in the book are wonderful in their mirrored timeliness. And it ends with the introduction of frozen foods, which opened many eyes to the new possibilities of food consumption. "A Square Meal" is insightful, humorous and educational. I highly recommend it.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
An amazing confluence of history, sociology, and culture!
By Carl Ian Schwartz
There is an old saying, "You are what you eat." American eating habits reflect our nation throughout its history.
This fascinating study of Americans' diet takes the reader from the 19th-century farm through changes wrought by the move to the cities, World War I, and the beginnings of the disciplines of nutrition science, home economics, technology in the food industry and kitchen, media influences, through the social upheaval that was the Great Depression, ending at that next great turning point, World War II.
The writing is clear and lively and the scholarship impeccably thorough. I can't wait for the authors' next installment.
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